Talking about Camera Flash

An Electronic camera flash is a simple, cheap solution to the inherent light problem in photography. Their sole purpose is to emit a short burst of bright light when you release the shutter. This illuminates the room for the fraction of a second the film or sensor is exposed. While flashes can be used for a variety of reasons (e.g., capturing quickly moving objects, creating a different temperature light than the ambient light)

Running water
Running water "frozen" by flash.
 
furious wing action of a Hummingbird Hawk-moth is frozen by flash
The furious wing action of a Hummingbird Hawk-moth is frozen by flash. The flash has given the foreground more illumination than the background. See Inverse-square law

 

Canon 430 EXA

 

A flashcube fitted to a Kodak Instamatic camera, showing both unused (left) and used (right) bulbs
they are mostly used to illuminate scenes that do not have enough available light to adequately expose the photograph. The term flash can either refer to the flash of light itself, or as a colloquialism for the electronic flash unit which discharges the flash of light. The vast majority of flash units today are electronic, having evolved from single-use flash-bulbs and flammable powders.

Flash units are commonly built directly into the camera. In addition, many cameras allow separate flash units to be mounted via a standardized accessory mount bracket often called a "hot shoe". In professional studio photography, flashes often take the form of large, standalone units, or studio strobes, that are powered by either special battery packs or connected directly to the mains and synchronized with the camera from either a flash synchronization cable, radio transmitter, or are light-triggered, meaning that only one flash unit needs to be synchronized with the camera, which in turn triggers the other units.

Types of flashes

Flash bulbs

The earliest flashes consisted of a quantity of magnesium flash powder that was ignited by hand. Later, magnesium filaments were contained in flash bulbs, and electrically ignited by a contact in the camera shutter; such a bulb could only be used once, and was too hot to handle immediately after use, but the confinement of what would otherwise have amounted to a small explosion was an important advance. A later innovation was coating flashbulbs with a blue plastic coating to match the spectral quality to daylight balanced color film as well as providing protection from the rare occasion when a flashbulb would crack during a flash. Later bulbs substituted zirconium for the magnesium which produced a brighter flash.

Flashbulbs took longer to achieve full brightness and burned for a longer duration than electronic flashes, and slower shutter speeds (typically from 1/10 to 1/50 of a second) were used on cameras to ensure proper synchronization. One of the most widely used flash bulbs up through the 1960s was the number 25. This is the large (approximately 1 inch (25 mm) in diameter) flash bulb often shown used by newspapermen in period movies, usually attached to a press camera or a twin-lens reflex camera.

Flashcubes, Magicubes and Flipflash

In the late 1960s, Kodak improved their Instamatic camera line by replacing the individual flashbulb technology (used on early Instamatics) with the Flashcube. Flashcubes consisted of four electrically fired flashbulbs with an integral reflector in a cube-shaped arrangement that allowed taking four images in a row. The flashcube automatically rotated 90 degrees to a fresh bulb upon advancing the film to the next exposure.

The later Magicube (or X-Cube) retained the four-bulb format, and was superficially similar to the original Flashcube. However, in the Magicube each bulb was set off by a plastic pin in the cube mount that released a cocked spring wire within the cube. This wire, in turn, struck a primer tube, at the base of the bulb, which contained a fulminating material. The fulminate ignited shredded zirconium foil in the flash and, As a result, a battery was not required. Magicubes could also be fired by inserting a thin object, such as a key or paper clip, into one of the slots in the bottom of the cube.

Flashcubes and Magicubes are superficially similar but not interchangeable. Cameras requiring flashcubes have a round socket and a round hole for the flashcube's pin, while those requiring Magicubes have a round shape with protruding studs and a square socket hole for the Magicube's square pin. The Magicube socket can also be seen as an X, which accounts for its alternate name, X-Cube.

Another common flashbulb-based device was the Flipflash which included ten or so bulbs in a single unit. The name derived from the fact that once half the flashes had been used up, the unit had to be flipped and re-inserted to use the remainder.

Modern flash technology

Nikon SB400 Flash
Nikon SB400 Speedlight flash
Today's flash units are often electronic xenon flash lamps. An electronic flash contains a tube filled with xenon gas, where electricity of high voltage is discharged to generate an electrical arc that emits a short flash of light. (A typical duration of the light impulse is 1/1000 second.) As of 2003, the majority of cameras targeted for consumer use have an electronic flash unit built in.

Another type of flash unit are microflashes, which are special, high-voltage flash units designed to discharge a flash of light with an exceptionally quick, sub-microsecond duration. These are commonly used by scientists or engineers for examining extremely fast moving objects or reactions, famous for producing images of bullets tearing through objects like lightbulbs or balloons (see Harold Eugene Edgerton).

Studio flashes usually contain a modeling light, which is an incandescent light bulb placed close to the flash tube. The continuous illumination of a modeling light helps in visualizing the effect of the flash.

The strength of a flash device is often indicated in terms of a guide number, despite the fact that the published guide numbers of different units can not necessarily be directly compared.

Although they are not yet at the power levels to replace xenon flash devices in still cameras, LEDs (specifically, high current flash LEDs) have recently been used as flash sources in camera phones. LEDs are expected to approach the power levels of xenon in the near future and may replace built-in xenon flashes in still cameras. The major advantages of LEDs over xenon include low voltage operation, higher efficiency and extreme miniaturization.*

Technique

shutter speed. A fill flash or fill-in flash is a low powered flash added to ambient light to illuminate a subject close to the camera while using an exposure long enough to capture background detail. Another technique is to point a flash upwards onto a reflective surface, which may be a white ceiling or a flash umbrella, which reflects light onto the subject; this is called bounce flash. Bouncing creates a more natural light effect than direct flash without glare in the highlights and impenetrable shadows, but requires more flash power than a direct flash.

Part of the bounced light can be also aimed directly on the subject by "bounce cards" attached to the flash unit which increase the efficiency of the flash and illuminate shadows cast by light coming from the ceiling. It's also possible to use one's own palm for that purpose, resulting in warmer tones on the picture, as well as eliminating the need to carry additional accessories.

Some camera manufacturers may be considering the inclusion of a built-in bounce flash within the body of a camera with automated features to assist the user in obtaining a bounced light effect without spending time to set up and direct external flash devices

Example of no-flash and fill-flash

Fill flash

Fill flash is a photographic technique used to brighten deep shadow areas, typically outdoors on sunny days, though the technique is useful any time the background is significantly brighter than the subject of the photograph. To use fill flash, the aperture and shutter speed are adjusted to correctly expose the background, and the flash is fired to lighten the foreground.

Most point and shoot cameras include a fill flash mode that forces the flash to fire, even in bright light.

Depending on the distance to the subject, using the full power of the flash may greatly overexpose the subject especially at close range. Certain cameras allow the level of flash to be manually adjusted e.g. 1/3, 1/2, or 1/8 power, so that both the foreground and background are correctly exposed.
 

 

Fill light

In television, film, stage, or photographic lighting, a fill light (often simply fill) may be used to reduce the contrast of a scene and provide some illumination for the areas of the image that are in shadow. A common lighting setup places the fill light on the lens axis, roughly perpendicular to the key light.

The fill light is often softer and, by definition, less intense than the key light. The ratio between light and shadow depends on the desired effect. For example, a fill light that is a small fraction of the power of the key light will produce very high-contrast or low-key lighting, while filling with half or more of the key light power will produce a high key, low-contrast tone.

An alternative to using a direct light source as a fill is to re-direct or "bounce" the key light towards the subject by using a reflector.

Bounce flash

Another technique is to point a flash upwards onto a reflective surface, which may be a white ceiling or a flash umbrella, which reflects light onto the subject; this is called bounce flash. Bouncing creates a more natural light effect than direct flash without glare in the highlights and impenetrable shadows, but requires more flash power than a direct flash.

Part of the bounced light can be also aimed directly on the subject by "bounce cards" attached to the flash unit which increase the efficiency of the flash and illuminate shadows cast by light coming from the ceiling. It's also possible to use one's own palm for that purpose, resulting in warmer tones on the picture, as well as eliminating the need to carry additional accessories.

Some camera manufacturers may be considering the inclusion of a built-in bounce flash within the body of a camera with automated features to assist the user in obtaining a bounced light effect without spending time to set up and direct external flash devices

Ring flash

The Nikon R1 wireless close-up speedlight system
The Nikon R1 Speedlight is a form of ring flash
A ring flash, invented by Lester A. Dine, in 1952 originally for use in dental photography, is a circular photographic flash that fits around the lens, especially for use in macro (or close-up) photography. Its most important characteristic is providing even illumination with few shadows visible in the photograph, as the origin of the light is very close to (and surrounds) the optical axis of the lens. When the subject is very close to the camera, as is the case in macro photography, the distance of the flash from the optical axis becomes significant. For objects close to the camera, the size of the ring flash is significant and so the light encounters the subject from many angles in the same way that it does with a conventional flash with soft box. This has the effect of further softening any shadows.

Ring flashes are also very popular in portrait and fashion photography. In addition to softening shadows, which can be unflattering to models, and bringing out unsightly wrinkles, the unique way that a ring flash renders light gives the model a shadowy halo which is a common feature of fashion photography.

Macro ring flash usually consists of two parts: a shoe-mount unit mounted on a hot shoe, and a circular flash unit mounted on the front of a lens. Power is supplied by batteries in the shoe-mount unit, and a cord relays the power and control signals to the circular flash unit. For larger ring flash units like those used for fashion photography, power is usually delivered by a power pack which can be battery or AC powered. Some ring flashes however, like ones made by Alien Bees, are constructed like mono lights where the light and power are contained in one unit. Within the circular flash unit, there can be one or more flash tubes, each of which can be turned on or off individually. Some ring flashes have focusing lamps for helping low-light focusing. Ring flash diffusers are also available, which have no light source of their own, but instead mount in front of a conventional flash unit and transmit the light to a ring-shaped diffuser at the front of the lens.

Drawbacks

The distance limitation as seen when taking picture of the wooden floor
The same picture taken using existing weak electric light and the longer exposure instead. The distance is no longer restricted but the colors are not natural and the picture noise is higher.
  • A typical problem with cameras using built-in flash units is the low intensity of the flash; the level of light produced will often not suffice for good pictures at distances of over 3 meters (10 ft) or so. Dark, murky pictures with excessive image noise or "grain" will result. In order to get good flash pictures with simple cameras, it is important not to exceed the recommended distance for flash pictures.
     
  • Electronic flash units and some bulbs have durations so short that slower shutter speeds must be used on focal plane shutter cameras. This is because the slit of light that traverses the film to expose it travels slower than the duration of the light provided from the flash. The resulting photograph will have anything from only a narrow slit exposed, to one side dark, or both sides dark, depending on the exact scenario. Some cameras and flash units solve this problem, but most do not.
     
  • The "Red-eye effect" is another problem. Since the retina of the human eye reflects red light straight back in the direction it came from, pictures taken from straight in front of a face often exhibit this effect. It can be somewhat reduced by using the "red eye reduction" found on many cameras (a pre-flash that makes the subject's irises contract). However, very good results can be obtained only with a flash unit that is separated from the camera, sufficiently far from the optical axis, or by using bounce flash, where the flash head is angled to bounce light off a wall, ceiling or reflector.
     
  • Some cameras' flash exposure measuring logic fire a pre-flash very quickly before the real flash. In some camera/people combinations this will lead to shut eyes in every picture taken. The blink response time seems to be around 1/10 of a second. If the exposure flash is fired at approximately this interval after the TTL measuring flash, people will be squinting or have their eyes shut. Among others,suffer from this problem. One solution may be the FEL (flash exposure lock) offered on some more expensive cameras, which allows the photographer to fire the measuring flash at some earlier time, long (many seconds) before taking the real picture. Unfortunately many camera manufacturers do not make the TTL pre-flash interval configurable.
     
  • Flash distracts people, limiting the number of pictures that can be taken without irritating them. Photographing with flash may not be permitted in some museums even after purchasing a permit for taking pictures.

See also

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